Three Days

Campuhan Ridge, Ubud, Bali

If you asked me, I’d quite confidently tell you that it takes three days for me to get the feel of a place and to feel settled. But still, I find those three days a challenge. I guess, when I’m in it, I’m never sure I’m going to make it through to the other side. But I always do. Maybe one day I’ll know that.

Today is my third day in Ubud and right on cue, I’m beginning to find my way. Rama messaged me yesterday and said, I hope you’re enjoying getting lost in Bali. And when I messaged back saying that I had got lost in the same place twice, I decided it was time to make some adjustments. So this morning, I got up when I woke up, which wasn’t easy to do, and by 6:12 am was standing outside room number 3 at Krisda Guest House. I was wearing my running shoes and was sort of ready to go. My teeth were brushed but there was definitely still sleep in my eyes.

I’ve found the shortcut to the main road and it’s nice to pop out there from a higgledy flight of stone steps. But today, instead of turning right, which is what I had been doing, I turned left. I walked for a bit, feeling pretty pleased with myself just for being out so early, and found there were already quite a few Lycra-clad bodies about. Ubud is most definitely a yoga town. I noticed a couple taking off down a side road towards a swanky looking hotel and a tiny sign with an arrow that said, GOING TO THE HILL. So I followed them. And much to my delight, I think I’ve found the Balinese version of The Lighthouse run.

It was stunning up at the top. With views over the jungle valley on one side and newly-sprouting rice fields on the other. The sun had just cleared the ridge. As I ran along the path, I heard chanting and looked up to see a small group of people bouncing up and down with blindfolds over their eyes. The top of their heads only becoming visible through the long grass when they jumped. I imagined travellers on a spiritual quest of some sort. I kept on running. Further along, I took a detour off the main path and through the rice terraces. And found a Balinese woman performing the daily Hindu ritual of canang sari, a morning offering of gratitude. I didn’t have a frangipani blossom with me, although I had looked for one at the beginning of the trail, but I gave thanks all the same.

After my run, I went back to the guest house for a breakfast of pineapple pancakes. And then slept. I’ve been so tired since arriving here. A kind of heavy tiredness that doesn’t pass even after a good night’s sleep. It could be the three hours jet lag from Australia and the last crazy month catching up with me. Or maybe being back in my own company has allowed me to change gears. I’m settling back into first. Maybe second at a push.

When I woke up, I was hungry again, so I went to Lazy Cats. Which seemed fitting. Lazy Cats is next door to the stone steps that I pop out from and has quickly become my go-to cafe. I ordered a coffee and said hello to the woman who was sitting at the next table. I asked her if she was a local because somehow she looked like she knew what was what. When she said yes, I asked her what she thought I should do this afternoon. So following Sheela’s suggestion, I have been to an Ancient Sound Healing Ceremony at the Pyramids of Chi. I have lain down in a huge dark pyramid with about 30 other people and have been coached into an hour and a half of meditation using gongs, pipes, bells and all manner of ancient instruments that I don’t know the names of. And once my mind stopped whirring, perhaps from the coffee, I kind of loved it.

Tomorrow morning, depending on which gear I wake up in, I might see Sheela again at her yoga studio up near the ridge. After that, I’m taking a boat from Sanur to the neighbouring island of Lembongan. I’m going on a spiritual quest of my own. I’m going to find the ocean and I’m going to dive.