So long, Siquijor

Sandperch (photo by Sara Bana)

Stay and make friends, she said. And Mum, you were right. I had thought I’d visit another island in between here and Australia as I was worried I’d be missing out on something unmissable if I didn’t. But if I hadn’t stayed on, I’d have missed out on something more valuable still.

Just over a month ago, during my bumpy landing here in the Philippines, I began thinking about how much I was looking forward to getting to Australia to be with my friends and family. And I had a deep-down sense that what I needed wasn’t just being with people I knew but being with people that knew me. I couldn’t quite figure out what the difference was, and it sounded ridiculous when I attempted to say it out loud. I thought I liked bopping through new places and keeping things brief, but the truth is, I needed a break from being a stranger in town.

So over these last two weeks, I’ve taken the time to become a part of something. Two weeks isn’t long, but it’s as long as I’ve stayed anywhere since India and friendships develop quickly when you’re travelling. So much so that here, in the barangay of Maite, on the island of Siquijor, over 7,000 miles away from my home, I always see someone I know wherever I go. Just coming here to the coffee shop, I heard my name being called from across the road. It was JJ, my go-to habal-habal, (motorbike-taxi) who I phone when it’s too far to walk. But sometimes, he just magically pops up and says jump on. No charge, he says. Because we are friends. I really have made lots of connections with people I know I’ll see again. I’ve had conversations that have challenged me and nourished me. And I’ve laughed until my sides have ached. But it’s made me quite useless at writing. I’m no longer an observer and it’s just so much harder to write a thing when you’re sitting, or dancing, inside of it.

I’ve also done fourteen more dives since I’ve been here. It’s been out of this world. Many of those dives have been on the same reef, so not only have I got to know Sara, the owner at Mystic Divers, I’ve got to know the corals and the fish too. My favourite is the sandperch, much to the amusement of everyone here. There are puffers and porcupines, barracuda and frogfish, nudibranch and Spanish dancers. Not to mention the trumpetfish and turtles. There are all sorts of everything. But I’ve chosen the guy who is not as good at hiding as he thinks he is. Perhaps because he’s a little like me.

Today is my last full day in the Philippines and I’m just back from my last dive. We went to 36.6 metres, which is my deepest dive yet. There is something about going deep that is thrilling and beautiful. Although not without risk. It feels fitting that we did that today. I said goodbye to the sandperch and got as close to a turtle as I ever have. I saw a massive angel fish, another huge puffer, undoubtably the biggest triggerfish yet, and a great wall of lettuce coral that seemed to go on forever. Staying longer is definitely making it harder to leave but I’ve reaped the rewards.

So tomorrow morning I’ll take the ferry to the neighbouring island of Negros. From there, I fly to Manila, and from Manila to Sydney and then on up to the Gold Coast. I’ll be there by Tuesday afternoon. I really can’t wait to see those dear people I love, those people that know me.